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Indonesia - a little bit of Arabia in the Indian Ocean

By Melody Kemp - posted Friday, 25 July 2008


Indonesian Muslims have seemingly missed that as water was not safe to drink until the 16th century everyone drank some fermented beverages; wine and beer being the most widely drunk, and that many of the world’s great wine grapes, like Shiraz and Syrah, come from Muslim nations.

But that is the nature of fanatics. That they are unswayed by logic, but driven by conformity and costume politics, is a matter of fear for Indonesians.

“Gillettes were not yet invented in the day of the Prophet, so of course he and every other man had a beard” said visiting clean shaven Muslim writer and intellectual Ziuddin Sardar “… If they want to emulate Mohamed, they should throw away their mobile phones and catch a camel to work. Of course they cannot have their photo taken, smoke or watch TV” he laughed.

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Past experience has shown that Indonesians reject Islamic parties, so many are recreating themselves in various guises knowing their brand of austere religion-based politics was not selling.

While Asia Pacific TV recently reported that a narrow majority of Indonesians wanted Shari’a law, in reality they simply want any law that works; and Shari’a just might do that by returning some power to communities. People want law that is predictably fair and unable to be bought with money and threats. One laconic Indonesian saying is that a man who steals millions gets away with it, while man who steals a chicken gets 20 years, so you might as well steal millions.

Discussions with workers on Jakarta streets indicated a high level of cynicism. Most indicated they would vote golput (informally). “It’s the same old dirty faces with different clothes. Can you imagine that psychopath Prabowo defending farmers rights?” one said referring to the infamous Special Forces officer who was known to do his own torturing and is now heading a national farmers party.

Another said “I am Muslim but electing an Islamic party is not the path to the future. We will end up killing each other like they do in the Middle East. I want a peaceful life for me and my family. We want clean government and an end to corruption.” Those sentiments were repeated time after time with various degrees of despair and very little hope.

But with the stealth of a cat, the PKS might just use this disaffection to their purpose. By their steady recruitment of activists, trade union officials and others whose opinions hold sway, they just might convince the tired Indonesian population that they are a credible choice.

The Jakarta Post agreed quoting political scientist Syamsul Harris from the Institute of Sciences as saying that recent surveys of voters intentions indicated that the PKS would get up, not because of its Islamic brand, but because it was projecting an image of honesty.

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Coming home late, our taxi was overtaken by lot of young men in jeans and robes riding an open topped macho jeep. The rotating police lights gave it all a surreal feeling. Then came the swarm of terrifying young men on bikes who took up threatening positions and parked hard up against the taxi. Our host, a long time Jakarta resident pointed out that these were the highly toxic faces of crime dressed as Islam. “They bust up bars who do not pay protection using the sword of Islam as their cry.” he said.

The taxi driver also scared, slowed to enable them to draw far ahead where young men with red glowing batons directed them to the prospective scene of the action. “That’s interesting. See they are being directed. We will see more of this with the PKS.” my host intoned glumly.

One T shirt I saw on Jakarta streets exhorted people to “Vote for my Moustache” But they might instead, end up voting for beards.

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About the Author

Melody Kemp is a freelance writer in Asia who worked in labour and development for many years and is a member of the Society for Environmental Journalism (US). She now lives in South-East Asia. You can contact Melody by email at musi@ecoasia.biz.

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