Indonesia - a little bit of Arabia in the Indian Ocean

But maybe they are simply attracted by the money. May’s edition of the business-focused Globe Asia, reported that with the fattening economic effect of soaring oil prices, the Gulf states are looking to broadening investments and influence in Asia, and Indonesia in particular. Some have called it a little bit of Arabia in the Indian Ocean, This as a time when systematic corruption, failing infrastructure and the global economic downturn is driving American, European and Asian investment into retreat.

The accompanying photo of Saudi Prince Alwaleed bin Talal, looking remarkably like Bono in wrap-around shades and open shirt instead of the typical white dishdasa, marks a move by Saudi in particular to project itself as a modern tolerant state. Saudi recently sponsored an interfaith meeting in Madrid. The projected modernism could not actually tolerate those from other faiths being on Saudi soil.

The Post reported that Islamic militants have become increasingly dependent on zakat (alms) which do not appear on the books as official campaign financing, or go through the Ministry of Finance as official aid. Thus it is difficult in the extreme to monitor just how much influence the Middle East is having on fostering puritan Islamic ideology in the region and Indonesia in particular.

Officials at the Indonesian Religious Affairs Ministry fear that the amount of zakat given to PKS will soar both during and after the forthcoming Islamic fast known as Lebaran, enabling them to further mobilise and offer economic assistance to communities at a time when the fallout from rising oil prices is fueling daily demonstrations.

Muhammadiyah, one of Indonesians two major Islamic organisations accuse the PKS of infiltrating that organisation. Muhammadiyah, like the Nahdlatul Ulema is keen to maintain the separation of religion and state in Indonesia, known for its relative religious harmony.

“They are very well organised” says Rita Olivia of the Trade Union Rights Center. “They are recruiting trade union officials to stand as candidates. I know at least three unionists who have agreed.”

“I would rather have a military government than let the Muslim fanatics get into power.” said Siti Ariwono, a Javanese Muslim woman development worker. “We will all have to wear black veils, like those ghosts we see shopping. I couldn’t stand it.” She referred to the increasing number of Middle Eastern women in full black covering in the shopping malls.

“And it’s women who have the most to lose. I am really afraid of what influence the fanatics will have on women” said Olivia. “All the progress we have made as Indonesian women, as a thinking nation, will be reduced by a pile of fanatics.” She and others see well behind the current PKS wallpaper.

Fanatic rather than terrorist is the oft used word. For Indonesians the fanatic is more dangerous than a terrorist, as while a terrorist can kill a few, the fanatic can infect the very soul of Indonesia’s secular state and overturn tolerant coexistence. While Indonesia has experienced outbreaks of secular violence, largely, reputable sources have insisted orchestrated by the military, it does not suffer the same extreme ructions that plague India.

Indera Nababan of the Batak Christian Mission doubts that voters will be taken in by PKS’s austerity and good behaviour. “They still remember the mobs running loose in Kemang breaking bottles and attacking people” he said referring to the times when young men in robes attacked the bars and restaurants of the foreigner’s enclave in Jakarta.

“They know that the PKS has links with the Islamic Defenders Group who attacked those wanting a secular state. We are not so easily wooed into believing they are different.”

But East Java and parts of Central Java are now nominally dry. You cannot buy alcohol there. Even in Jakarta one has to creep to the back of supermarkets and hiss at a passing worker that you want to buy wine. They will then give you a floral covered book which lists what is available. And these days it is not much. The said bottles will be brought from a place out the back and placed guiltily in your trolley. It reminded me of the “Joe sent me” days of prohibition speakeasies.