They never let us forget, do they? I was a guest at a wedding in Te
Puna, south of Auckland, over Easter, where the master of ceremonies
used his overhead projector to give those from “across the ditch” a good
drubbing. His series of jokey slides culminated in an image of Trevor
Chappell delivering that infamous bowl to Kiwi Brian McKechnie.
It may have been 29 years since we Aussies unleashed our underhanded,
underarm tactic in that one-day match, but the incident still rings
loudly in the New Zealand psyche, as do our claims to its sons and
daughters, Russell Crowe and Crowded House et al, whose faces also
flashed up in the slideshow.
The comparative economic reality means the smaller country has often
lost its fairest and brightest to its neighbour, but you didn’t need to
look past the bridal table to get the point: the Kiwi-born bride had
married an Aussie. Our presence was being felt in real time.
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Yet
New Zealanders quietly know what they’ve got. They rightly take pride
in the natural beauty of their homeland, its lush green hills and
wilderness. Take a trip around the gorgeous South Island in particular
and you’re spoiled for scenery. The country’s tourist industry has,
until the recent world economic downturn, boomed, centered around its
environmental credentials; “100 per cent pure”, according to the
marketing.
Now, in pursuit of trying to dig its way out of the
economic ditch, new Prime Minister John Key, leading a minority
government with his Centre-Right National Party, shakily formed with its
unlikely political bedfellow the Maori Party, is threatening to destroy
that carefully massaged international notion of New Zealand.
First
up, with profit as his priority, Key proposes removing 7,058 hectares
of protected land from the Crown Minerals Act, allowing mining in
sensitive areas such as Great Barrier Island and Paparoa National Park.
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Second,
Key has flagged that, when the International Whaling Commission meets
in Morocco in June, he might support a compromise position that would
allow Japan, Norway and Iceland to openly hunt whales, with the aim of
reducing the total catch over the next decade.
When he’s done,
Key will surely have differentiated his lush country from its big dry
continent neighbour, and tourism – based on what makes New Zealand so
special and different – will be the worse for his efforts, making for a
much bigger debacle than any dodgy failed bloody tourist slogan the
Aussies could ever dream up.
Take Kaikoura, a beautiful little
coastal town east on New Zealand’s south island, where tourism is the
ballast. The town’s main attraction is Whale Watch, a nature tourism
company owned by the indigenous Kati Kuri people, which each day
charters large boats of sightseers out to spot whales, using sonar
equipment, along the way taking in pods of dolphins, seals and their
pups on rocks and magnificent albatrosses flying by.
(Kai, in
case you’re curious, means “eat” and koura means “crayfish”, but locals
here advise you to add a soft “d” sound after the “r”, otherwise you’ll
be saying “eat bird feathers”. White people or pakeha often fall for
this linguistic trap.)
Already, the drop in tourist numbers
thanks to the global economic downturn has forced the Kaikoura bed and
breakfast where we stay onto the market – and if New Zealand’s
liberalised mining and whaling policies further harm its tourism
industry, wine won’t pick up the slack: many growers are selling up due
to overproduction; the number of wineries and vineyards for sale in the
Marlborough region, for instance, has risen from about 30 last Christmas
to about 150.
On the day we arrive in Kaikoura, the sea swells
are so fierce that the whale watching trips are cancelled, with refunds
or new bookings made. It’s a precarious business at the best of times.
When
we do go out the next day, the swells are seasick-rough, but we are
more than rewarded when we spend 10 minutes watching a sperm whale,
called Waiki, spouting water then flipping its tail into the air as it
dives.
On board, the anger at Key is palpable.
The
young woman with the microphone urges us to sign a petition asking the
Government not to legitimise commercial whaling and turn New Zealand
into a pro-whaling nation when we get back to shore. Next to her on the
wall is a brass plaque, informing passengers the Prime Minister had
launched this boat only last November.
Key’s whaling and mining
Realpolitik should knock a few percentage points off the 100 per cent
pure manifesto. Or, to put it another way, if he doesn’t give his
environmental policies a rethink, Key is about to deliver his countrymen
his own version of the underarm bowl. Economically, it could be a
grubber.