The night of Jerusalem's joyous chaos

"The fact that Laylat al-Qadr took place in an atmosphere of openness and mutual tolerance may have gone some way to abate the fears of a self-identified 'Jewish State' when it comes to opening the doors to the occupied territories," he said.

"If both communities can share the Holy City for one night without incident, then the discourse of fear which perpetuates Israeli establishment thinking will begin to crumble in the face of this new reality."

Officially, Israelis have described the relaxation as an initiative aimed at improving relations between Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu and Palestinian President Mahmud Abbas.

An official, speaking on condition of anonymity to Agence France-Presse, described it as one of a series of measures, among them an agreement on trade and tax arrangements and an attempt on behalf of the Palestinian Authority to negotiate a loan from the International Monetary Fund.

"Over the past few weeks we have adopted a whole series of confidence-building measures. We have done these things and we are willing to do more to create a better atmosphere," the official said.

Maybe, but in the days following the end of Ramadan it appeared to be back to business as usual. A round-up of the Israeli and Palestinian media revealed reports on seven Israelis being arrested after an assault on an Arab teenager which left him badly injured; Israeli settlers attacking a Palestinian house in the West Bank near Nablus and trying to set it on fire and a campaign to try and stem Palestinian immigration because of the "bad political, economic and social conditions resulting from the Israeli occupation".

On that day as well the Vice President of the European Commission, Catherine Ashton, issued what has become a routine statement expressing concern about Israeli plans to expand settlement activity on the West Bank and in East Jerusalem.

"Settlements are illegal under international law and threaten to make a two-State solution impossible, Ms Ashton said.

When it comes to the real roadblocks to peace, the Israeli Government still isn't listening.

The Kidron Valley has another name, Emek Yehoshafat, which means The Valley Where God Will Judge. According to some prophecies it will be the site of the last battles between the Gentiles and Israel when God when will come to Israel's aid, defeating its tormentors with "diseases, rain, fire and stones" and rendering harsh judgment against all Gentiles who have wronged Israel since the beginning of time.

One wonders where the inhabitants of East Jerusalem, trapped behind their grey wall and with an otherwise grandstand view of the spectacle, will fit into God's judgment plan.