The Gallipoli Experience - a traveller's reflection

Thinking about this exclusion reminded me of the story I heard in Turkey about the reaction of a Sultan of the Ottoman Empire when he heard about the expulsion of a certain ethnic group in another part of the Mediterranean. 'So many of them are artisans of great talent' the Sultan stated 'let them come here, we will prosper from their knowledge^'. Since European occupation Australia has also prospered from the contributions of many ethnicities, where do they fit into this contracted national narrative of Anzac? It was with the same magnanimous attitude of the Sultan that I found the Turks have embraced the fallen of Gallipoli, their commemorative spaces as well as their offspring that continue to descend upon their shores.

My previous trip to Turkey all those many years ago had shown me the warmth and friendliness with which the Turkish people regarded Australians. Although it is always nice to know you are liked internationally I never really understood why Turkey held such affection for Australia, after all as a nation we had attempted to invade them. I had been told it was because our soldiers were respected adversaries but during this trip I decided I would investigate this attitude further.

I put the question to our guide Kenan and other Turkish people I met, the answer was always the same. 'They were all martyrs' they would say. During this time I also read the article by McKenna and Ward who question the assumption both Anzacs and Mehmets were victims stating this idea places the blame solely on British shoulders and exonerates Australian participation in the event. Anyone who has read Les Carlyon's book Gallipoli can see that literature has now emerged that squarely allocates blame where it should be. Carlyon does not gloss over the facts whether the culprits are geriatric British Generals, drunken New Zealanders or Australian officers with serious psychiatric issues.

So is it that the Turks possess a generosity of spirit that can look past the politics and see the humanity of the situation? I wonder if this is a character trait in our onetime enemy that we as a nation should try harder to emulate?

While in Turkey I found particularly touching the generosity of the women I encountered. I assumed these women were Islamic due to there dress and it was equally obvious I was not, due to mine. I had encountered a problem with fluid retention from the long flight to Turkey and combined with the heat and lost luggage and consequently no joggers I was in a bit of a state. The kindness and empathy I encountered from women who didn't shared my language, faith or culture was surprising and overwhelmingly appreciated.

I knew the suspicion with which women who wear the hijab are greeted in Australia so it was of no surprise when I returned home to see that a series of negative and derogatory Islamic/Muslim stories were being featured on a mainstream television show such as A Current Affair. I shook my head and thought of those lovely smiling women I had met and sadly realized they would not have been treated with the same compassion in my country that I had been shown in theirs.

Although my physical incapacity had surprised and annoyed me it had another benefit beside the fleeting friendships with these women. It made me think hard about what the men endured during eight months on the peninsula. Besides being constantly under fire these men lacked proper medical attention, suffered from an inadequate diet and endured unsanitary living conditions. How can I ever look at the sweet comfort of jam without remembering how they had to battle the swarms of flies in an effort to partake? The men must have become increasingly incapacitated yet they still had to cope with the arduous circumstances. They did not have the luxury of being able to get back on the bus and proceed to the next site as I did. I could never presume to say I understand how they felt but it did make me think harder about what they must have been up against. If my physical reaction had been a surprise the emotional turmoil I encountered was an absolute shock.

Emotion was not one of the ideas to which I had given much consideration prior to departure. When I did a read through of my battle presentation immediately prior to leaving I knew there was going to be an issue. I just never realized how extreme this would be. The emotional roller coaster eventually climaxed the day after the Nek presentation, which I suppose had left me fairly raw. We visited the Turkish Martyrs' memorial, which for me brought on a cascade of thoughts feelings and revelations. The site was divided into sections and it was probably the expanse of glass tablets displaying lists and lists of names of the dead that most affected me.

The space was dotted with cool pine trees and possessed an incredible serenity despite the number of Turkish families wandering through and reading the names of their ancestors. It was this vision that finally made me realize just how many Turkish lives had been lost. Although many Australians consider Gallipoli an extension of Australian soil, they forget it is part of another nation and another narrative. Gallipoli was the genesis of radical change for the Ottoman Empire the beginning of its metamorphosis into modern day Turkey.

I now question if as a people we appreciate the generous spirit of the Turkish people and government that allows us to share this history and these commemorative spaces. Australians, once invaders are now guests, our dead are honoured guests, and our pilgrims that visit are treated with kindness, friendship and respect. As such I hope that we will always behave as good guests should and reciprocate in kind. Australian participation was only one part of the Gallipoli story and maybe the most important lesson I have learnt is to view our presence within this story through a less myopic lens.